Vivid jewel-like colours at Stella McCartney proved eyes are the main canvas for spring/summer trends
Pastels are always a popular choice for brighter months, but in the upcoming months they're much stronger, according to Dior
Nude lips let dramatic eyes do the talking at Issa
What else is there to look forward to once the festivities are finished except brightening up dark days with new looks as the trends for our spring/summer wardrobes start to emerge?
So we asked one of the world’s most respected catwalk make-up artists and trend maker, Pat McGrath – who’s also global creative design director for Max Factor - to point us in the right direction so we can get practicing. After all it looks like we’ll have plenty of time holed up behind the snow!.
For starters, we’re going to focus on eyes…
“This season marked the emergence of a new power pastel. These pastels aren’t pale or washed out, they make a statement,” says Pat, picking out eyecatching shades from a palette of lavender, baby blue, mint, pink and white.
Alice in Wonderland was the muse at Versace where the eyes were lined in lavender and violet; bold baby blue at Dior was based, Pat says, on ‘easy glamour’; punk pastels highlighted eyes at Viktor&Rolf and the idea of ‘dark romance’ at Kinder Aggugini resulted in doll-like pink powdered eyes layered with purple glitter. For Donna Karan’s show, a simple tick of white eyeliner created a modern minimal effect.
Get the look: Max Factor Masterpiece Colour Precision Eyeshadow in Star Dust, Pearl Beige and Icicle Rose.
Just as strong as the pastels but at the other end of the spectrum, a rainbow palette of vibrant semiprecious shades inspires many key eye looks for the upcoming season - “with just a flash of colour,” says Pat.
From ‘tropical storm’ smouldering green eyes at Issa; safari-inspired khaki at Aquascutum; purple, pink and red-lidded silent screen stars at Galliano; colour blocked Gothic punks at Yohji Yamamoto; to the neon eyeshadow shades at Balenciaga, the result was a lightning bolt of electrifying colour for the eyes. Pat painted vivid eyeshadows from the lash lines to brows to make the greatest visual impact, paired with liquid black eyeliner to accentuate the colour.
Get the look: Max Factor Earth Spirits Eye Shadow in Onyx, Ultra Aqua and Passionate Plum.
“This season, lashes make a bit statement,” says Pat, who also played with eyeliner, making lines from thin to thick to redefine the natural outline of the eyes.
At Gucci, a super-fine line edged the eyes, while at Anna Sui, black liner encircled the eyes – almost: leave a gap in the line to avoid making eyes appear smaller, advises Pat. Valentino eyes were inked in black half-moon shapes and at Cavalli liner was sketched horizontally outward. Layers of mascara at Louis Vuitton were used to create spiked lashes and Miu Miu went for ‘cat’s whisker’ lashes. A ladylike theme prevailed at Nina Ricci where Pat used brown mascara on the top lashes only to achieve a softer, more feminine result.
Get the look: Max Factor Lash Extension Effect Mascara in Brown and Glide & Define liquid liner.