The poor old cauliflower; relegated to the domain of powdered sauces, second-rate cheeses and pub microwaves. It's about time we did the versatile vegetable some justice. A good cauliflower cheese is the comfort supper of champions, equal in warmth to a pile of creamy mash. The sauce must be made with lots of Gruyère or cheddar and hot English mustard; no corners can be cut and lots of pepper must be dispensed. Equally wonderful is a smooth, unctuous cauliflower soup, thick with cream and rich with parmesan. Keep your eyes peeled for its beautiful cousin, the Romanesco – vivid green, almost alien-looking, but perfect, like a fractal drawing. Delicious steamed then served with a pangritata of crispy breadcrumbs, anchovies and herbs.