It must be jumping fresh – frozen it can become rubbery when cooked. It requires the briefest of cooking times too unless you want to be chewing a rubber band. In Spain you’ll frequently see it on paella along with a variety of shellfish including prawns and mussels (although many would argue the true paella is the rabbit version from Valencia – an argument for another day), but it is at its tentacled best when grilled or cut into rings, floured and deep fried. In both cases a squeeze of lemon is all that is needed.
The Thais use it well too, poaching in a hot stock flavoured with lemongrass, lime leaves, chillies, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and given a final showering of coriander – which takes only a few seconds to cook – no more than a minute. Served with sticky rice this makes a squeakingly savoury supper.