Skip to main contentSkip to footer

How to apply mascara for different eye shapes

We get the lowdown from celebrity make-up artist Francesca Neill...

Alex Light
Body Work Columnist
Share this:

Of all the things in our ever-expanding makeup bags, mascara would appear to be the easiest to apply… Simple swipe and you're done, right? In fact, there are different ways to apply mascara according to your eye shape – certain methods can accentuate your eyes. But what works for you? We spoke to celebrity makeup artist and COLLECTION ambassador Francesca Neill to show you how it's done…

"With any eye shape, I would start off with lash curlers to open up the eye," advises Francesca. "Heating them up with a hair dryer is a really good tip, as it gives a great heated curl effect on the lashes that stays."

mascara 1a© Photo: Getty Images

Kim Kardashian always accentuates her eyes with mascara

Close-set eyes

"Put emphasis on the outer corner of the eye to make them look wider. Apply a coat of mascara to all the lashes, and then focus the second coat on the outer lashes from the centre of the eyelid to thicken and add extra definition. Apply in a zig-zag motion to coat every single lash. Add a few individual lashes if you want to exaggerate even more."

Wide-set eyes

"For wide set eyes, do the opposite of what was recommended for close-set eyes. Focus the second coat of mascara on the inner lashes which will make it appear that the eyes sit closer together. Use black mascara as the darker colour will help bring them closer together."

Monolid eyes

"This term refers to eyelids that do not have a crease. For these, you want to make lashes appear longer so curling the lashes first is really important so you can see them about the lash line. Avoid going for a mascara that will thicken lashes as you want to be able to see the eyelid through the lashes to keep the eye looking more open. Use a lengthening mascara to fan out the lashes."

Hooded eyes

"A hooded lid can flatten the eye shape so emphasis in the centre of the lashes will help to create height. Also consider the eyeshadow you’re wearing. A light shadow will highlight your lids and could make them look more uneven, so create dimension with a darker colour along the lash line."

How to apply mascara for different eye shapes

"Avoid putting mascara on the bottom lashes and keep everything to the top lash line. Dark, smokey eyes can accentuate the droop even more, and you really want to make the eye appear lifted. If you hate not wearing mascara on the bottom lashes, try a brown instead of black to avoid the darker colour pulling the eye down."

Almond eyes

"This is the easiest eye shape to play around with as they more-or-less suit everything. They look great when both top and bottom lashes are coated as it makes the most of them."